Yes, there was a lot to do and see this day. There is so much history and Maritime culture to explore – like the first pub. The Split Crow was the first to be granted a license to sell alcohol in 1749. The original name was the Spread Eagle – after the double eagle on the German coat of arms. But after a few beers, locals starting calling it the Split Crow (guess they were seeing double).
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I had booked a reservation for lunch at the other end of the waterfront. From the Split Crow, which is near Upper Water, I walked the boardwalk, popping into shops until I got to The Bicycle Thief for lunch. I asked the hostess what the wine list was like and she seated me a stack of wine bottles. Good plan.
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The Bicycle Thief came highly recommended. There was outdoor dining but there was a chill in the air. I had a nice corner table where I could look out at the harbour. Sauté Shrimp appetizer. I did have a pasta dish but neglected to take a photo (I was hungry).
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After lunch I headed to the Halifax Seaport Famer’s market. On the way is a statue of Samuel Cunard – a Haligonian who was instrumental in establishing the modern day cruise ship. And in behind is the Carnival Sunrise out of Bahamas. Cruise ships are vital to the Halifax economy.
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The farmer’s market was a bit of a disappointment. Not a farmer to be seen anywhere. Lots of vendors. I was told to come on a Saturday.
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My final stop is Pier 21, where people from all over the world stepped on to to start a new life in Canada. It houses the Museum of Immigration. The spaciousness and natural lighting brightens up the immigration story.
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Through this door and another one next to it, over 1 million people passed in order to enter and settle in Canada.
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Page 16 and 17 of the Canadian Passport has drawings of Pier 21. They will stamp your passport on that page with a Canada Post stamp.
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A model showing how the operation was setup. On the bottom right is where they first entered. If they passed their medical and immigration interview, and they had a destination or sponsor, then they crossed over to get their bags and catch the train.
If they couldn’t pass, they went into the top right area to work things out.
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The tour tried to recreate some of the things the immigrants had to face, like this charming immigration officer.
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We sat and listened to a multi-media presentation. Photos of immigrants were reflected on the wall staring at me.
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People brought their food for the train. However, it was confiscated and thrown out. They had to buy “Canadian” food from the store – like Spam. Obviously a money making scheme.
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After that it was time for a pint at Henry House – a National Historic site because it was the home of a Father of Confederation – William Alexander Henry. Trust Halifax to put a pub in the home of a Father of Confederation.
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It was the perfect balance to the large, industrial setting of the Immigration museum.
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A photograph (which I had never seen) of the Charlottetown Conference participants and where William Henry stood.
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He was one of two people who worked on the British North American Act which gave birth to Canada. So I raised my glass and said a toast in his honour.
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Walked all the way back to the hotel, had a shower and got ready for dinner. I had booked a reservation at The Press Gang, which is part of the Carleton building – the second oldest in Halifax. This was the stables and some servants quarters. The low beamed ceiling and stone work I found to be quite inviting.
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Once again, I had a nice, little corner with a door that must have been an escape hatch.
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“Sustainable Blue” Atlantic salmon with pesto cream sauce, caramelized onion polenta, seasonal vegetables & rosemary parmesan tuile.
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Yes, that was a very long day but well worth it. Tomorrow is Lunenberg but I won’t have to walk there. The hotel was just a block away and was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.