East Coastal Driver, Day 17 – Yarmouth

We had a lot planned for today so the post is a little long.

We have been very fortunate with the weather so far. When we left Cape Breton it was cloudy, overcast. On the mainland it was foggy, But when we got to Lunenburg, the sky cleared, sun shone and puffy white clouds.

However the fog had rolled in this morning. I was driving The Lighthouse Route – which takes you along the shore. I was heading down to The Hawk beach. The Hawk is Nova Scotia’s most southernly community.

I drove through Barrington to get there. They label themselves the Lobster Capital of Canada.

They have these lobster art works, painted by a local artist. However I did see 5 different companies that were selling live lobster to the public. So I guess they do pull quite a few in.

The fog was all around. Driving down this old, country road. Then, a yellow sign “Beach”, and I turned and saw the rocks ahead.

I took Raisin and Greta out of the car. Eve looked at me and said “I’m not going”. Maybe she heard the waves or smelled the salt air. Or just new what we would see (or not see).

Yes, the magnificent view of the Atlantic ocean was not to be.

The temperature was nice, not cold or too hot. We went for a stroll down the beach. We had missed the sunrise. Was hoping the sun would clear away the mist. Not happening

We headed up the Lighthouse Route. I kept my eye on the fog, hoping to get an ocean shot. We stopped in Clark’s Harbour to check out the boardwalk. Didn’t inspire me but I liked the chair made out of lobster cages.

Greta is thinking “I spent almost my entire life sitting in a cage. Don’t think this is a great photo opportunity.” We were on Cape Sable Island. To get to the island, you have to cross the Sable Causeway. On the way back we stopped for a photo. There was a park and a beach – and fog. But the causeway was clear.

There are some beautiful houses along the route. There wasn’t any traffic on the road but, still, there was no place to turn off. I took these two from the car.

I took a wrong turn trying to get to Argyle. Ended up in this cemetery from 1760.

Pugs had been sleeping this whole time (except for the Greta/chair thing). I turned down a Lighthouse Road just before Argyle. The fog had cleared and the ocean was way off in the distance. The lighthouse was not accessible by car or foot.

In the Argyle township, in the town of Tusket, is Canada’s oldest standing courthouse and gaol – built in 1805. However, today it was closed for cleaning. The woman coming out saw the pugs and immediately came to us. She said it would be open tomorrow and we could tour the place. Our plan was to head to Digby – the opposite direction. She took a photo of us and the courthouse.

We finally made it to Yarmouth. We were staying at Rodd Grand Yarmouth hotel – it was the only one that was pet-friendly. We were too early to check in so decided to explore.

The first place we went to was Sip Cafe to get a coffee. We followed the arrows inside the place but it was rather narrow. However there wasn’t a line up. Eve, Raisin and Greta put a smile on everyone’s faces. And I heard the word “pug” a few times.

Right across the street from the hotel is Frost Park. It was named after Captain Charles Frost – from Yarmouth who had a distinguished career included President of the Bank of Nova Scotia.

In the centre is a rose compass to help get your bearings. However it was strange to see grave stones in the park, along with a gazebo and a red lighted tree. Bt the pugs enjoyed it and we had a picnic here.

At the Visitor Information Centre, we were stopped at the door. The woman explained that, because the office was part of the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, dogs were not allowed in. I asked about Live Music and went outside. She came to me with a pamphlet for Seafest and where the music would be happening.

We walked along Water Street – a working area of boats and fishing docks. We came to a little museum and the girls staffing it squealed when the saw Raisin and Greta in the stroller. I masked and went inside. The one at reception took our photo.

The Cann brothers, John and Hugh, came to Yarmouth from New England in 1782 and grew a shipbuilding dynasty that lasted 6 generations (got that from the museum).

Just the a little way pastthis is the Canada/US ferry terminal that goes to Portland, Maine. It’s all fenced up because of the border closure. We then headed up the hill to Main St. We came across a pet friendly patio at Heritage Brewing. While we were there, a group of people came and sat down. Raisin heard their voices and immediately went over to say Hi.

Another fellow, who had been drinking inside, came out to see the dogs. He tried to win Greta over but she wasn’t having it. He was a hippie type with braids and patchouli. Maybe that’s what made Greta keep her distance. He was very sociable and, turns out, he was from Acton. Had a pint of the double IPA while the pugs and water and rest.

On the way back to the hotel, we passed the “Lost to the Sea” memorial. The block stands about 6 feet and there are seven of them listing the names and year of those from Yarmouth lost to the sea.

There is also a little fountain as part of the memorial.

With the pugs fed and sleeping, I headed to Rudders Seafood Restaurant and Brew Pub. It was on Water Street and next to the stage where the music would be playing.

I had the seafood casserole. You can never really have too much seafood, especially when you are in the Maritimes. I tried both the Killam Irish Ale and Rudders Red Ale (the Irish Ale was my fav).

Went back to get the pugs and stroller and head down to the Coal Shed – which was the name of the stage. A few people came up to say hi to the pugs – I let Raisin do her thing. However there were these tiny, midge like bugs that kept landing on us. I was constantly either squashing them on my arm or petting down the dogs. After 3 songs we couldn’t take it and left.

We went along the boardwalk. I stopped to take a picture of the sunset. There were a group of people at the end of the pier. I took them out of the stroller, line them all up. I was talking to them, telling Greta to smile, Eve to stay, then I took the shot. The people thought that was the most amazing thing – that they would pose, just like that. Of course, they have been doing it so often that it has become a habit. But seeing it for the first time must be impressive.

And that was our full day. Greta had to squeeze into a Queen size bed. Eve cuddled up next to my head. Everyone was tired but happy. Tomorrow we head to Digby and then Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic site for 2 days.


  1. You sure pack a lot of stuff in one day. I’ll be the girls loved their picnic in the park even with the headstones all around. Strange for sure. 🙂

    I’ll bet you where glad to have that queen sized bed after the long day. Thanks for sharing all the photos with us.

  2. Thanks for sharing your wonderful vacation journey with us! The pugs sure are enjoying themselves and soaking up the love from everyone. The cooler weather on the east coast is just right, too.

Comments are closed.