Newfoundland – Day 4, Petty Harbour – Maddox Cove

Two highly anticipated places today. Pugs and I drove to Petty Harbour – Maddox Cove. Home of Alan Doyle, lead singer for Great Big Sea. This village is packed during the summer and parking is limited. I planned to have lunch at Chafe’s Landing. I was able to park right in their lot.
Then up to Signal Hill but it was too cold for the way we were dressed. Finally, my reservation at Raymonds with Chef Jeremy Charles.

On the morning dog walk I noticed a Hotel called JAG that had rock n roll posters in the lobby. So I went back for breakfast. There was a cassette tape coffee table.

The hotel lobby and restaurant are decorated with rock memorabilia. The omelet was superb.

After breakfast we were off to explore. Petty Harbour-Maddox Cove is only a 15 minute drive but they have staked their territory. There is a clear sign that you have left St. John’s and entered their village.

The people have claimed this, through federal legislation, as a protected fishing area. They have determined how fish will be caught since 1923.

However, when the environmentally disastrous fishing methods were introduced in the 60’s, the fishers worked to stop that practice at Petty Harbour-Maddox cove.

A pan view of the harbour.

Looking back from the end of the pier to the village. Raisin wandered around behind me.

A person at our dog park, who is from Newfoundland, suggested the Chafe’s Landing restaurant. In the summer it is an hour and a half wait. Because it is off season, I got a table right away. There is an upstairs that looks out over the harbour but I was happy downstairs.

Moose and Guiness stew. Newfoundland is the only province that allows restaurants to serve moose and other uninspected game meat.

Driving up the hill is a little lookout. The town and harbour in the background.

Back in St. John’s I drove up to Signal Hill but the temperature had dropped and the wind chill was felt.

The view of St. John’s (with pugs) 2019.

The view (without pugs) in 1831.

Since 1762 it’s been known as Signal Hill as cannons would fire to announce the time, or warn of fire (or attacking pugs).

Transatlantic cables allowed for wire communication. In 1901 was Marconi’s first wireless transmission from Signal Hill.

The Battle of Signal Hill, in 1762, when 200 English soldiers climbed Signal Hill to overcome the French forces, ending the 7 years war.

Chef Jeremy Charles’ restaurant, Raymonds, is located in this heritage building of 1915 – the Commercial Cable Company.

I saw Chef Jeremy twice when he came to George Brown College. Once when he was a guest with Massimo Bottura. Then later, he came to do a talk and sign his own book about Newfoundland cooking Wildness

Anthony Bourdain came to visit. Chef Jeremy is all about local. The chefs go out to the docks behind to restaurant to greet the fisherman and buy right off the boat. I chose the tasting menu. Chef Jeremy was not working tonight.

They make their own butter, smoke it in house and flavour with sea salt from Bonavista.

The waiter describes each course. Candy beets. The red currents are prepared the same way capers are but still crunchy. The home made yoghurt is topped with leek oil. The leek oil is so vibrant and packs a “green” whollop in the mouth.

Pumpkin is in season and was a predominent ingredient. Here we have Pumpkin gnocchi in a butter pumpkin sauce with wild smoked chantrelles, locally farmed sprouts and ricotta.

Seared cod. They buy the whole cod so they can cook with the skin. That is their signature. The skin is crispy and balances the melting softness of the flesh. Topped with shaved fennel, bed of leeks.

Pasture beef. In his book, Jeremy introduces the farmers that he buys from. It is part of the charm of the book to meet the agricultural families of Newfoundland. Here is roasted pumpkin. The beef is topped with a tomato based sauce.

The pastry chef is Celeste Ha who has one Canada’s Top Pastry Chef award. Here she is working with corn and blueberries. The corn forms the base. Topped with pumpkin ice cream.

I ordered a St. John’s Fog coffee and they brought me a finishing macaron – seseame and dogo apple.

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